Sunday, May 31, 2009

Grand Tour de Kansas City

Saturday was spent doing two things: exploring the West Bottoms and going on a grand tour with Halliday and Joe.

During the day, nothing much goes on in the West Bottoms, or at least nothing goes on outside. It's so hot I can't blame anyone. There aren't any trees and the only refuge from the heat is in the shelter of the warehouses. I think the optimal time to run around here is probably at dawn and sunset, I'll do the latter tonight, maybe I can borrow someone's bike. The riding around here would be great.

The grand tour included all the major highlights of Kansas City. KC is far more interesting than I could have anticipated. It is a happening city, and I guess I should have known that due to how large it is. All cities have a counter culture worth looking into, Kansas City's just happens to be right up my alley. Then again; it could be my hosts. Halliday and Joe seem to know a large group of people. Everyone we ran into I was introduced and there is no possible way I could remember all their names, but everyone was friendly, I even met a guy who went to PNCA.

A few highlights of the tour included:
- Westport, trail head for the Santa Fe Trail, and home to the oldest remaining building in KC. Westport also is a indie hangout and has the equivalent of the buffalo exchange, an excellent brewery, and the Broadway Cafe - which put a Starbucks out of business.
- Thrift stores, the prices are what thrift store should have. Here, you can buy a thrifted dress for five dollars or under and such things as the dollar barrel exist.
- The city of fountains, the only city with more per capita is Rome.
- Shakespeare in the park, doesn't open until July.
- Riverfront Market
- KCAI and the surrounding museums, not part of the art institute chain as I previously suspected, the grounds seem worth looking through.
- The Plaza, an older part of town that has been remade into an expensive outdoor mall.

Joe gave me some info for an upcoming show, today I'm going to put together a poster for it and work on my zine.

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Catching up - Part 3

Finally, I have time to write about the good stuff.

Hammerpress
is the dream I thought it would be.

Hammerpress consists of five people. Brady Vest is the founder/boss and does most of the printing. He and Matt are the only full time employees. Matt works on a lot of the computer designs with Jen, who is increasing her hours to help the work load. Wendy is a older lady who does all the shop keeping and organization that is needed for their store. Finally Bobby is another printer who comes in a works on Fridays and Saturdays. I haven't met him since he was off this Friday.

The shop is going through a change. The bread and butter of Hammerpress is wedding invitations. A custom designed, handset wedding invite costs around 3500 dollars. The pricing is new as well. From what people have been saying, not many people understand what it is that Brady does, well people looking for wedding invitations that is. Brady said what he does is more like painting than printing. When people ask for one of his creations they are asking for a piece of fine art and apparently that doesn't sit well with most. Along with the new higher price, there is a waver customers sign off on saying they are okay with signing off on a drawing, since by the time Brady has a proof it is too late for major changes.

The newer option is a computer designed invite which is then printed using a metal plate ordered from Michigan. Most of the design elements used in the computer designs are from existing type that has been scanned in, thus still retaining an element of the hand-done. Though, this too takes time. Jen estimated a custom invite take four to five days to finish. Since invites is not all Hammerpress does, they are attempting to streamline the process by creating twelve layouts customers can choose from, then customize with their names and wedding colors. Those will be out in June.

Hammerpress does a great deal of design work for businesses too. Anything from posters and menus to cd covers and business cards. Some is handset, some is computer made, it all depends on the price bracket. Brady does almost all of the handset design work and almost no design work on the computer.

Posters are to Hammerpress somewhat as stocks are to a persons paycheck. They don't make much at the time of printing but payoff over a longer period. Brady mentioned that there are four or so to be done in the time span that I'll be here and that I'll get to work on those when they come up.

Stationary is the last part of Hammerpress and a large part of their business. I'll get into more of that as I describe what I do around the shop.

Wednesday, May 27th
Upon arrival I was taken on a tour of the shop. The front room is a store where prints, cards, and some things that Brady thinks to be interesting reside. Brady is a self proclaimed pack rat and so the decor is a little garage sale chic. Although anyone who knows my taste should know that is not a bad thing. The office is to the left of the door and that is where all design work takes place.

The back half of the shop is where all the printing happens. Hammerpress has nine presses, three of which are Ruths (Vandercook Universal I). It also has a jaw dropping amount of type. Brady has accumulated so much type he has to store some of it in his backroom because he doesn't have room in the studio. I think I might have drooled when I was looking through their drawers. For those of you who looked at Abra's type catalogue, you know that page where all the circus and western fonts were? Yeah, that's Brady's type cabinet. He even has a few alphabets of wooden fonts that must be a good five or six inches in length. There are just about as many crazy ornaments and vintage image blocks as there is type. Brady gets his type from a variety of locations, auctions, eBay, Craigslist, and some of it is new from the foundry in San Francisco. His type is his pride and joy and rightfully so.

Brady returned from a large stationary trade show in New York a day or two before I arrived. Through shows like that and representatives is how he sells his product to other stores. Once, through the New York show, Urban Outfitters hired him for a job of printing 25,000 alphabet cards.

Anyway, Wednesday was spend folding cards and preparing orders that came out of the show. Wendy helped me and showed me the ins and outs of packaging. She also offered up some ideas about where I should go around town.

***!* for anyone who wants Hammerpress ephemera, you should contact me. Make-readies and old merchandise are all at my disposal. There is a whole backroom full of stuff that Brady intends on just throwing out if anyone isn't interested in it. Old wedding invites are up for grabs too. I know that sounds funny, but they are some of the coolest stuff there. *!***

That night I intended to make dinner for my roommates, but I fell asleep and the gas went out until June 1st. So no cooking for me.

Thursday, May 28th
This day I spent printing. I printed 300 plus wedding invitations for a friend of Brady and about the same for some cd packaging. I've already learned a few things:
- most of Hammerpress' work is on cardstock. It's cheap and takes printing well. Some design work is on different types of paper, but a fair amount is on simple cheap cardstock.
- designing at an angle on the press bed is not as hard as it looks, just time consuming. One also needs a wooden corner to build off of, but I think something like that could easily be made for PNCA.
- every press has a character of it's own, no matter where you go.

In the evening Joe and I went over to Halliday and her roommate Danielle's where Halliday made a delicious stirfry for us. We had some wine and sat around enjoying the evening until Joe and I left for a succession of houses where I met a bunch of people.

The night capped off at this house where we "porched it". Somehow it felt like a flashback to a 1920's speakeasy- if I could flashback to the 1920's. That feeling probably had to do with the girls who lived there. They were flappers a bit in look and much in spirit.

I learned about the zine culture of Kansas City, which is very little. I was invited to submit to two coming out this month and I think I will. I need to work on mine, I'm not sure what the topic will be on. Oh - in all of this I went to a place called the Arts INKubator Press and will be taking part in their co-op for the summer. That's where I'll be screen printing.

Friday, May 29th
More rep packaging today. A great deal of rep packaging actually. Jen was helping me put things together and said that this is a once a year occurrence that means big business. Eventually Hammerpress intends to do all of their sales to stores through representatives.

About mid morning bus loads of people came through Crossroads from a convention happening at the Art Institute Kansas City (AIKC), so I didn't get much done but sales were great. I stayed late and hung out talking for a bit. Jen and I are going to go thrift storing on Monday, which will be great since for once in my life I didn't pack enough.

The Led Zeppelin themed party consisted of a bunch of people with one thespian hostess dressed up in a velvet jump suit and some music videos playing in the background. Around ten we went to Davey's Bar to see some bands. The show was rocking, at least the first two bands that played, by the time the third was on, it was one am and I was getting tired, so the last two didn't strike my fancy in the same way.

After, we grabbed some Mexican food and then I was dropped off to go to sleep.

now here I am. There is a cat name Flora demanding my attention and shedding great piles of hair, all over my bed, in revenge for not getting it. I need to go get ready. Later I am having a grand tour from Halliday and I think I'm going to go stare at some trains.

My first week was fantastic. Hammerpress is inspiring, laid back, and welcoming. The Pistol is a ready made social network that I am welcome and included in. My weeks here are already getting booked with a potluck, fashion show, first Friday, and a trip to St. Louis on the horizon. Good things are happening.


p.s. one of my oldest friends (dating back to elementary school) lives and hour and a half away. Going to go see him sometime too.

Friday, May 29, 2009

Catching up - Part 2

Okay, so after driving approx 1850 miles, I was in Kansas City.

Tuesday, May 26th
Spent most of the day sight seeing. Mom wanted to see both Truman's home and Jesse James' farm, which conveniently happen to be in/near Independence. Truman's home was interesting although most of it was under construction so we were unable to see much of it. Jesse James' farm was simple, but really, there isn't too much to say on the matter except what was said in a short movie shown just before the tour of the farm house.

The most interesting part of Independence sadly didn't have much information on it. Independence is where many, if not most, of the Oregon and Santa Fe Trail pioneers started. Coming from where they ended, if was pretty cool to be there thinking about what it took to found my home.

The evening was spent picking up essentials that I'd essentially forgotten to pack. I briefly dropped off what I did pack at the Pistol Social Club (more about the Pistol later) and went back to the Quality Inn. Went to Walmart to get an air mattress and lights because my new room lacked furniture of any kind.

Early the next morning I dropped off my Mom at the airport and went to my first day of work...

Now for the really interesting stuff. What should I say first? Do I talk about the Pistol, Hammerpress or Kansas City first? Since I know most of you are interested to learn about the happenings at Hammerpress, that is the last thing I will describe. Haha! Actually, it makes sense to talk about things in order as I came across them, and well, that still puts Hammerpress last.

Kansas City
is not surrounded by amber wave of grain. Surprise! Surprise! It actually is very leafy and the suburbs remind me a little of North Carolina. The drive into town is obscuring since all the trees are the same height and one can't see beyond them. Kansas City itself (Missouri side, I've yet to really explore the Kansas side) is slightly smaller than Seattle, but the downtown is only slightly larger than Portland. The architecture is industrial chic. Joe (you'll get to know who he is soon) told me that Kansas City has enough concrete to rival Los Angeles (I only sort of doubt it) and is second to Chicago for trains passing though (I don't doubt it, I get to hear many of them personally). Either way, both statements reflect the culture of the place, if that makes any sense.

Neighborhoods are somewhat ethnically divided. There is a distinct mexican quarter, black quarter, italian quarter, etc. Joe says Kansas City it isn't as segregated as it looks off the bat, but no city is. However the cultural "districts" seem to make it so that each part of the city is vibrant in distinctly different ways.

Hammerpress is in a place called the Crossroad Arts District. It is what the Pearl is to Portland, but not yet as pricey. Once upon a time the warehouses were cheap rental space for artists, then fancy galleries moved in raising the rent and what we all know to be gentrification set in. Like I mentioned, the ritz that oozes from some places in the Pearl does not yet inhabit the Crossorads, but Kansas City is still in the revitalization stage.

Once booted from Crossroads alot of the artists moved to the West Bottoms, which is where I am now....

The Pistol Social Club
is both home and music venue. Actually, music venues are holed up and down this place. The section that I live in is drywalled apart from the show space. First I think I need to describe West Bottoms to really describe my home.

When Kansas City was a fledgling town, and even when it was not such a fledgling town one of the huge markets was livestock. In fact, I believe it was the market. Anyways, West Bottoms was the stockyards until Kansas City had no stockyards anymore. Already cris-crossed with train tracks/yards, they took over and the only thing to make it's home in West Bottoms that was not a warehouse or train related, was a rodeo area, now rarely used.

So I live in a section of warehouse surrounded by train tracks, and thus frequent trains. It's somewhat surreal. Upon first look, it seems sketchy, but really isn't. People look out for each other and there are almost no homeless or wandering souls. Joe says the surrounding warehouses are filled to capacity with a variety of people and venues. There is an auction house, screen printing studio, apartments, and an architectural salvage store to name a few.

The loft I live in consists of drywall made rooms, an old kitchen and communal bathroom. My room is huge with a brick wall, old wood floors, and gigantic windows that get glorious sun all day long. Alas, I have nothing to furnish it will, but my air mattress and plank shelves will do. The communal room is also a bit surreal. It seems like a set from a movie. It contains alot of large mismatched furniture that some how all pulls together to create a perfectly bohemian setting, although I think it became so by chance verses purpose. "Everything is here because it's too big to go anywhere else." Pictures will explain much better than I can.

I have two-four roommates depending on who is here. Joe is my only consistent roommate so far. Joe Hammer (fate says that is not a coincidence) is the manager of the Pistol Social Club and is the caretaker of the building. I gather he's in his early 30's or late 20's. His girlfriend Halliday spends time here often, but she has a place of her own too. She uses the space as a studio for her fashion line. Uriah and his girlfriend are here sometimes (Uriah is my third actual roommate) but I've yet to meet either. It seems he's been staying with his girlfriend and then they went to the lakes. They're supposed to be back on Sunday. Joe and Halliday are fantastic and have taken it upon themselves to include me the the local scene. They're into Rockabilly which is refreshing to get a dose of from time to time (again, fate says this is not a coincidence).

Did I mention the Pistol Social Club has a giant cap gun outside the building? Well it does.

Alright, well I have to go to a Led Zeppelin themed party and then a few shows or something, I'm honestly not quite sure. I'll finish this up later. Keep you waiting....

Catching up - Part 1

I have quite a bit to write about. Sadly I forgot the charger to my camera, so pictures will accompany the blog later, once I've had it mailed to me. I'm not really sure how to go about accounting for all that has happened in the past week, but I guess starting at the beginning is always the best.

Saturday, May 23rd
All I did on this day was drive from Bremerton, Washington to Bozeman, Montana. Didn't stop for anything except gas and lunch. The weather was great for driving and I found out that Montana's big cities aren't all that big.

Sunday, May 24th
This day was the shortest driver of all, going from Bozeman to Murdo, South Dakota. The reason being that I stopped at Little Bighorn Battle site, Wall Drug, and the Badlands. All essential sites that aren't worth missing.

Little Bighorn is, of course, where Custer had his last stand. It's on a hill just off the freeway. In the 1890's, markers were erected where soldiers presumably fell, although 20 years after the fact, it is hard to be sure. Sometime in the 1970's a few markers were put out for natives. Reading Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee was good preparation for this site. The outright hate that men like Custer had for Indians is staggering and one can't help but be glad in this case, he was wiped out instead.

Wall Drug is classic roadside America. I've been wanting to see it since there was a kitch special on Travel Channel ages ago. There is nothing that anyone could possibly need inside, but that doesn't make it any less appealing. Starting as a small, one room, turn of the century drugstore, Wall Drug has expanded into a labyrinth of touristy corniness. The center part is an aisle way of storefronts and there are alleyways that lead off into a cafe, boot store, post office, etc. The items they carry are about as random as possible, cowchip frisbees and jackalope heads as example. Behind Wall Drug resides something called "The Backyard". Personally, one of the best parts, it is home to giant fiberglass animals and a "live" T-Rex. One odd fact: Wall Drug is home to one of the largest collections of golden age western Illustrations in America. Awesomely, I got to see some N.C. Wyeth while I ate dinner.

Since the drive was not as far this day, we capped it off at the Badlands National Park. I can't really describe what I saw and give you an adequate idea, so I'll let the pictures do the talking when I get them. All I can say is this, they came out of nowhere. One minute you're on the prairie and the next...

Monday, May 25th
Other than arriving in Kansas City, the most important part if this day was the Corn Palace. No, actually, I'd rate the Corn Palace in front of arriving in Kansas City. Originally, the Corn Palace was just that - a palace entirely made out of corn, but after fires completely demolishing it, twice, the little town of Mitchell, South Dakota, decided to build a brick palace and just cover it in corn. The murals across the Corn Palace, changed once a year, are made in a fashion kind of like corn-by-number. They nail the nine different corns, by color code, where there needs to go. The lady in the gift shop called it; "the world biggest bird-feeder", I call it; "Karen's roadside mecca".

After waving the Corn Palace goodbye, it was an easy, boring, drive to Kansas City. Didn't really arrive in Kansas City, instead we went directly to Independence, Missouri, where a Quality Inn awaited.

Well now I have to go get ready for work, I will keep this adventure telling going when I return.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Welcome to Kansas City. Feel free to be yourself whenever you want.

There is a lot to write about. I just got internet and have had three days worth of driving and two of internship madness. What I have to say now is that everything is wonderful, fantastic, and even better than I could have imagined. I will type more tomorrow.

Saturday, May 23, 2009

and now it's time to leave

Spent the night driving home and in about fifteen minutes, I'll be heading out of here. Hopefully I'll be able to update on my drive over, but if not. I'll post again when I am in Kansas City!

Friday, May 22, 2009

Last day in Portland

It has taken me this long but I'm finally excited. I'll be driving home tonight and then heading out tomorrow morning. I will be trying to reach Butte by tomorrow night and then head south from there.

I still have a fair amount of packing to do, but I've picked up my screens from school and am mostly ready to go. It is a beautiful day so I think I'll go any enjoy it before I leave.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Two more days


until I go.


I read this book on interesting things to do in Kansas. I felt like it was trying too hard to make something out of the towns it highlighted. There were a couple spots that might be worth seeing - however I hope the Missouri side of things will provide more highlights. The world's largest hairball can hold hold my attention for so long. Then again; I haven't been to Kansas yet, so who knows what I can expect. I just can't get the idea of endless fields of wheat out of my head.



I have a living situation finally sort of put together: http://www.myspace.com/thepistolkc

The Pistol Social Club is a rock venue/community gathering space. Apparently there is a loft above the warehouse. It isn't too far from where I'll be working.

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Hemingway



A poster for non-profit, literacy campain. Part two of author series.

Monday, May 4, 2009

Juried Shows


"The Legendary Hank Williams Jr."
Screenprint - something like 11" x 25"
This print was accepted into both the '09 PNCA BFA Juried show and the Illustration Juried show. I did it last semester as my final project for Intermediate Illustration. Looking back, I'd redo some of the lettering.